Rethinking White Bordeaux.
Audience: [moans & grunts]
Release your prejudice. I did. Not until after the tasting, of course.
It had been quite awhile since a white Bordeaux touched my lips. Probably a few years ago in a WSET class. Before that it was in Brooklyn. About 6+ years ago I was at a show at Barbès. I wanted something cold. White Bordeaux the chalkboard read. I placed my order and slammed it. It was insignificant, but cold. It filled my need at the time. But who even knows where to find one?
I think white Bordeaux might be a refreshing by the glass replacement for all the cheap New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc’s that seem to dominate those tiny wine lists in the venues where many of us refuse to drink wine. You know the places. For instance, your local dive bar or your favorite music venue.
I had a preferred the selections where Sémillon was 30-50% of the blend.
2010 Château Marsalette – 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon – Pessac-Léognan (Jeffery M. Davies Selection)
2014 Château Respide-Médeville Graves Blanc Sec – 50/48/2 Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon/Muscadelle (Martine’s Wines)
2014 La Croix de Carbonnieux Blanc – 65/35 Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon – Pessac-Léognan (Duclot La Vinicole)
Thank you @anthonycailan for the invite.
GRAPE: Pinot Noir/Chard REGION: Champagne COUNTRY: France AVE PRICE: $47
I’m over the PetNat (AKA: Sparkling wine for the impoverished) craze. Don’t take me too literally of course there are PetNats I adore, but there are plenty more that I abhor. So many bottles are mislabeled wine that are actually lemon juice with alcohol. Don’t pretend you don’t know what I’m talking about.
The Fleur de l’Europe Brut Nature mouthful of liquid luxury with childhood playground energy. It’s rich with a beautiful salty and floral expression. Focused and tightly structured with teeny tiny bubbles. A combo of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay, aged 6 years on lees. Fleury was the first winemakers in Champagne to convert their vineyard to biodynamic in 1998.
GRAPE: Gamay REGION: Morgon COUNTRY: France AVE PRICE: $35
Been in the goddamn mood for Gamay lately. So perfect on a lonely night. Perfect for filling holes in the head and heart. 2014 Domaine Foillard Morgon Beaujolais “Cuvée Corcelette”. Fresh and vibrant from 80 year old vines. Crispy edge, soft spices, rocky outlines. Wild berries. Delicious fun.
WEB: Domaine Foillard
GRAPE: Syrah REGION: St. Joseph COUNTRY: France AVE PRICE: $32
Smoky meat, layered in fat. Cherry. White pepper. A bit rough around the edge. A layer of dust. Dig it.
WEB: Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet
GRAPE: Chardonnay APP: Champagne COUNTRY: France PRICE: $51
I feel surrounded by a paralyzing energy. If I could, I’d wrap a big bandage filled with love around the earth. It’s occupants are wounded. A big cheers to those who love and a big fuck you to those who don’t. And so long to my neighbor who committed suicide this morning. Although I didn’t really know you well. I’m going to plant some flowers in your honor.
On a lighter note. I need to drink more Champagne, so I can learn more about Champagne. But I’ll need to drink more Champagne. And who can afford Champagne? I love Champagne. I think Champagne is a need, not a want. I’ve had maybe 4 bottles of Champagne this year. So I don’t have much to compare this to. Regardless, Champagne Doyard Revolution has tiny, tight, persistent bubbles. It’s gentle. A load of finesse like a ballet dancer moving across a stage. All pleasure in the mouth. It’s looks pretty, smells like a pretty, taste pretty, and makes you feel good. Even on an ugly day like today where we could use some smiles. @champagne_doyard @skurnikwines
WEB: Skurnik Wines
GRAPE: Syrah REGION: Saint-Joseph COUNTRY: France AVE PRICE: $30
I was jonesing for a red yesterday after a long streak of mainly white, orange, and sparkling. It cooled down quite a bit last night making this a perfect re-introduction to reds. The Faury smells and taste of a beautiful spicy orgy of pepper, meats, and herbs. Considering how it’s dark and heavy in the glass but hits your mouth quite light. And all you tannin sissies can relax, they’re fine and will treat your mouth gently. It’s delicious. It has definitely put syrah back on my radar.
WEB: Domaine Faury
GRAPE: Aligoté REGION: Burgundy COUNTRY: France AVE PRICE: $39
Yeah, I would have guessed this one wrong. Maybe a Chardonnay, maybe Chenin. The grape. 100% Aligoté. Rich. Creamy. Savory. Round. Plush. Creaminess sometimes puts me off. But, not always. But it’s a very good wine and I’m sure a pleasure to consume with anything from a sea shell. Know about sulfites? Personally, I don’t give a rats ass about this subject. But considering the scary anti-sulfite cult roaming the streets, I feel the need to address the issue. I’m at a loss with this one because I was told no sulfites added. The bottle says, contains sulfites. The tech sheet says (Long pressing, in whole grapes, without adding sulfites) then it says, (Light sulphiting at setting). From tech sheet: Total SO: 37 mg / l — SO2: 20 mg / l. I’m left to assume sulfites were added after secondary fermentation. I searched other notes regarding the wine and people keep referring to this wine as unsulfured. Are they talking about a different vintage? I have no idea, I’m asking. Again, this isn’t so important to me, but what is important is communication. I think a whole lot of you are full of shit and have no idea wtf goes on behind closed doors at a winery regardless of what information is divulged. The crew might be vomiting in the barrels for all you know.
WEB: Naudin Ferrand
Instagram: @winemc2 @clairenaudin
UPDATE (comments from instagram)
- soilexpedition15 wasn’t a very good example of her elegant and beautifully austere juice she usually puts out.
- winemc2Hi @awordtothewine ..
- winemc2Claire Naudin does a larger part of her wine “fermented without sulfites”
- winemc2a dismal amount is added prior bottling no fining or filtration done
- winemc2and no vomiting in barrel ether 😉
- trentslattonWell said on the “anti sulfite cult roaming the streets”. A lot of them drink really off tasting, overpriced wine because it’s currently in vogue. I don’t buy that bs. A lot of it taste very amateur. There is a reason that things evolve. The process gets better. Sulfites protect from oxidation. We all know this, hopefully. It lasts longer.